WHAT TO PREPARE
SAFE PLACE / ROOM
Cats need to have high places within a house to retreat to or just retire to for a safe, quiet nap, or to get out of the way of some household activity or visitor (person or dog). For more nervous cats this can be a godsend – somewhere to relax. Of course, cats also love cosy warm beds and often those which they can hide away in, especially if the cat is a little nervous. Private places are important for cats to escape from any perceived dangers. Owners need to respect that and not disturb cats while they are choosing to remain hidden.
CAGE / KITTEN PEN
If you are getting a kitten then the purchase, hire or borrowing of a cage can be a godsend. Place a bed and a litter tray and to put food and water. If you haven’t had a kitten in the house for some time you will have forgotten how they get into everything and how their curiosity drives them into sometimes rather dangerous situations. If you can put them in the pen when you go out or at night you can be sure that they are not getting themselves into trouble. The pen also gives them time out if you have dogs, other cats or children as kittens do need a lot of sleep. They feel safe inside and soon learn to snuggle up in their bed. It is also brilliant for making introductions to dogs, cats and children so the kitten is protected but other animals can get used to it.
introducing
cats
by Jackson Galaxy
Let each cat sniff the other's scent. Rub a cloth or sock on your new cat,
and take it to your resident cat so he can investigate it with his discerning nose. Give your resident cat a favorite treat and/or indulge him in activities he likes, such as playing or brushing, to help him make positive associations with the new cat's scent. Then, perform this sequence in the other direction—rub a cloth or sock on the resident cat, take it to the new cat, and so forth.
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After a day or two, and possibly with some human volunteers to help you, have the cats switch places for a little while. Your resident cat can thoroughly check out the new cat's temporary room, and the new cat can have the run of the house. Both cats will take in loads of information from sniffing and leave their scents in every spot that's strategic from a feline point of view.
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Stress-busters such as interactive playing, ample scratching opportunities, catnip* (for cats that enjoy it), and luxurious petting sessions may significantly help both cats adjust to their new living situation.
the sock trick
Help! My new cat is hiding and won’t come out!
Don’t worry! Hiding behavior in cats is a TOTALLY NORMAL and healthy response to a new home!
Give her time to adjust. Your cat may have been happy & relaxed in their previous home, especially for older cats but since then, they may have been examined by a vet, put in a cat carrier, taken a car trip, in their case, traveled around the world in a plane and now are in a total alien universe filled with strange sights, sounds and smells. Every cat is different, just like every home is different. It can take a day, 5 days, a couple of weeks or more for your new cat to relax. 2 weeks is an average adjustment time for most cats.
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As long as your cat is eating, drinking, using the litterbox (even if its under the bed!) and not showing any signs of illness, it is generally safe to leave them in their hiding spot. Many cats will venture out at night when you are sleeping and the world is quiet. If she’s hiding in a closet, You can dust baby powder at the closet door to look for paw prints in the morning, to see if she’s ventured out.
Give her time to get adjusted to how your house sounds & smells. Wait to introduce her to friends, family, and other household pets until she’s out from under the bed.
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Get her used to you. Spare a few minutes to let her get to know you. If she’s under the bed, or hiding behind the bathroom sink, sit in her room with her and read a book, or work on your laptop.
Associate you with good things. If she likes wet food or cat treats, push some into her hiding place a few times a day, and just sit near by as she eats it.
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Music. Some adopters we know have told us that playing soothing classical music in the Kitty’s starter room has helped Kitty come out of her shell. The music may help lessen other noises outside the room that she’s finding frightening.
Don't panic. Your new cat may not eat much or at all at first. It can take several days for a cat to feel comfortable enough to eat, drink, and potty in a new home. It’s best to give your cat the same food she had at their old home, at least at first. Keeping some things familiar will make her feel more secure. Be sure to change her water frequently and make sure that she is drinking. Mixing equal amounts of Pedialyte and water in a bowl can treat or prevent very mild cases of dehydration if the cat is willing to drink the water. Make sure the Pedialyte is unflavored or the cat will refuse it.
It is essential to give your cats vitamins to help fight the stress of moving into a new home. I personally use Virbac Nutriplus gel since some cats are not used to drinking syrup and refuse which can just add more stress to your new cat.
Give them some canned/wet food. I recommend Royal Canin Kitten wet food. Placing the packet in hot water to make it warm does the trick!
If your cat hasn’t eaten for a few days, bring her to a veterinarian to ask for advice. They may have picked up colds along the way since they had a long flight and prevents them from smelling their food, Your veterinarian will diagnose and help you with your kitten,
A
&
Q
PURRING
vibrating sound cats make
How many litter box should I have? and what kind?
“The rule of thumb is one litter box per cat, plus one extra,” Galaxy says.
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Even in a one-cat household, it shouldn’t be “one and done” when getting litter boxes. Everybody likes to have options, and for many reasons it’s a good idea to give them to your cat too when it comes to where they pee and poo. The general rule is to have one more litter box than the number of cats you have — it’s called the “n+1 rule.” So if you have one cat, you need two litter boxes; two cats, three litter boxes, and so on. Having too few litter boxes is a common cause for many of the “toileting problems” that result in cats being brought to the vet.
Make sure the litter boxes you choose for your cat are large enough for your cat to fit inside comfortably, with some room to spare. They should have ample space to move and dig around in it, without having to step out. There should be plenty of space for them to easily avoid any “deposits” that are still around from earlier visits.
As a general rule, the correct size litter box should be at least as long as your cat, from their nose to the tip of their tail (when extended), and its width should be at least as wide as your cat is long (with their tail not extended).
Some cats prefer an uncovered box, others don’t. Of course, there’s no telling which “camp” your cat will fall into. So feel free to go either way here, or to test it out by giving your cat a selection of boxes to choose from. Just be ready to adapt if your cat starts giving you indications of a clear preference one way or the other.
If you do go the “covered” route, just make sure the opening isn’t too small or difficult to get to.